Drakes Estero Paddle

As another Drake's Estero paddling season closes, I thought I would take the opportunity of my first blog post to offer some thoughts on what makes this such a special place to explore.  It is true that the estero lies further afield than other potential paddling venues, deep in the heart of the Point Reyes National Seashore.  It is also true that the prevailing northwest winds can often present a challenge to those paddlers making the return trip up Schooner Bay in the afternoon.  

However, those willing to brave the extra drive and afternoon workout are rewarded with one of the most amazingly vibrant and gorgeous waterways on the west coast.  Drake's Estero, along with the greater Point Reyes Peninsula, is a region of unparalleled beauty and, though it be located a mere stone's throw from the bustling, burgeoning hum of the San Francisco Bay Area, it is one which seems almost unmolested by the steady march of modern urban development.  As many will know, this was very nearly not the case; for the late 1950s and early 1960s saw the possibility of a highly urbanized West Marin.  It was the alarmingly voracious appetite of this potential development which secured the region's future; eventually placing about it a nearly unparalleled bulwark of protection before which the plans for an urbanized West Marin crumbled like the breakers upon its massive sea cliffs.  

It is for this reason that those who paddle on Drake's Estero or explore along the towering white bluffs of Drake's Bay can quite literally see for themselves what their namesake saw in 1579 when he became the first European explorer to set eyes on the region.  As the great historian Samuel Elliot Morrison writes “Because Californians have foresightedly made this shore into state parks or reservations, the coast Drake examined has escaped “development.”  

One can gaze on a Drake's Bay almost as untouched by humans as when the “Generall”[Drake] passed that way.”¹  Add into this context the sheer amount of wildlife which inhabits the estero; with harbor seals, leopard sharks, bat rays and a multitude of different seabirds and raptors existing in abundance, and it becomes one of the most rewarding places to kayak on the entire West Coast or indeed the world.  Because of the estero's importance as a harbor seal habitat, the waterway is closed to recreational boating from late February to early July.  This means that we will now patiently look forward to another great season of paddling Drake's Estero, as well as the prospect of being able to explore the changes which take place during our absence.  If you want to experience this awesome place for yourself, don't hesitate to sign up for one of our paddles.  See you in July! 

-Brett

Point Reyes Outdoors Guide

1. Morison, Samuel Elliot. European Discovery of America: The Southern Voyages, A.D. 1492-1616.      New York: Oxford University Press, 1974. Print.

Check out the Thank You note we recently received from a happy customer below: 

A HUGE THANK YOU to Michael Harper for an adventure none of us will ever, ever forget!! 

Michael arranged for perfect weather, wildlife sightings and an other-worldly light show which had to be seen to be believed!  Gliding close to the craggy shoreline we saw harbor seals, cormorants, great blue and black crowned night heron, osprey, pelicans, egrets, elk, starfish and jellyfish.  After a leisurely meal on a quiet, remote beach, we pushed off into inky black waters that began to glow and flash as the sky darkened.  The night grew darker, and the water around us shimmered and sparkled with trillions of tiny, twinkling stars.  Any disturbance of the water triggered a mesmerizing bio-luminescent display.  Sounds of awe and delighted giggles were infectious.  Low, repetitive murmurs of "ohhh" and "wowwww . . ." could be heard from every kayak. 

Thanks Michael - I didn't even know that was on my bucket list!
John 

Director, Four Winds Ropes Course

Michael Harper, PRO guide for many years

If that doesn't convince you that an evening paddling on Tomales Bay should be your bucket list, we don't know what will. Check out our online calendar to view dates and call the office to check availability for trips-415-663-8192.

Hope to see you out there!

Points in Bloom

Springtime is many a hopeful humans' favorite time of year. And why not? It's getting warmer, the sun is in the sky for longer and longer each day and mysteriously delicious aromas begin to fill the air.

Here in Point Reyes the misty ocean air falls dutifully onto plants and trees that held strong through a windy and rainy winter and begin softening their edges, stand tall, and open their petals to the sky. This Douglas Iris offers a brilliant example.

This makes for many a pleasantries for hikers, bikers, kayakers, crawlers, prancers, soarers, and other passersby. It can't be confirmed that migrating whales can see the golden poppies waving to them from the hillside, but many giant sea creature eyes have been spotted sneaking a peak from awfully close to the shore. And really, who can blame them.

We highlight a few more of the currently blooming varieties of herbs and flowers below and suggest that the migrating whales take note... and perhaps meet us out at the point to ooo and ahh together.

Checkerbloom is a perennial herb.

Checkerblooms with a view.

Douglas Iris thriving in the sunshine.

 Mustard along the Kehoe Beach Trail.

Pussy ears!

Indian Paintbrush soaking in the recent rains.

 California Poppies and Lupine blooming in harmony.

Enjoy the springtime sunshine everyone. 

If you want an expert guide to take you along the best trails, call Point Reyes Outdoors.

Winter Paradise: The Lighthouse & Kehoe Beach

As winter continues on, our days grow longer, yet out in Point Reyes, it already feels like spring. Daffodils are popping up, I had one bloom in my yard last week! Wildflowers are getting ready to bloom. The crisp, clear days beg for exploring places that often find themselves shrouded in fog, or gusting with wind in the "summer".

Checking the park webcam, is often a first step for me. BTW, don't forget to click on the picture to see a live photo. Is it sunny out there? Is the wind blowing? (Try the WindAlert app) What is the wind forecast? (Try NOAA) I know that lots of folks just find themselves out here, but a couple of savvy checks can really make the difference in your adventure. Knowing the wind direction and how that would impact your hike, may seem a bit dorky, but often means avoiding less optimal winds, which translates into a higher enjoyment factor. Plus I like to be prepared, is a windbreaker enough or do I need a puffy? Anyway, I ramble.

 Kehoe Beach:

The photo at left was taken mid-morning in early January.  I was feeling cooped up. It had been raining. Again. I love the rain. We need the rain. But it had rained all morning in Point Reyes Station and it was my day off. It was still overcast and drizzly, but on a whim, a webcam check showed the clouds breaking near Tomales Point. So off I went.
  Guess what? No one was there but me. 

The Lighthouse:

Many people are discouraged by all those stairs... Don't be. Yes, if you are out of shape you will be out of breath, however, that won't be what you remember. Views out to the Farallon Islands, gray whale spouts, birds. FYI: They close the stairs on windy days, usually midafternoon. Avoid getting turned away by heading out in the morning. On a crisp day I snapped the two photos in this blog, with a fun & free app, Photosynth. (You can take 360 photos on your smartphone, just spin and tap. On your phone they are navigable.) I didn't crop them, so you can see how the app works, but I have cleaned up other photos I have taken with the app, they are wall worthy!

Happy Exploring!

Drakes Estero

The mouth of Drakes Estero as seen from Schooner Bay
Photo by Casey Newman, 2011, All Rights Reserved

It’s July, which means that Drakes Estero is open for boaters again! Drakes Estero is a 160-acre estuary in the heart of Point Reyes National Seashore, and its pristine waters teem with wildlife. Kayak tours of Drakes Estero launch from Schooner Bay and spend the day paddling through eelgrass and oyster beds, and over muddy and sandy bottoms where many invertebrates make their homes. These shallow, protected waters still rise and fall with the tides, so paddling the Estero can be tricky, and paddling times have to be carefully scheduled so that we can launch and land without wading through too much nutrient-rich (read: stinky) mud.

A young bat ray attempts to blend in with the sand
Photo by Casey Newman, 2011, All Rights Reserved.

An estuary is a protected body of water formed where freshwater from rivers and streams mixes with salt water from the ocean. Drakes Estero has several streams that drain into it, and it is protected by a sandbar that stretches across most of the mouth of the estuary. The brackish water formed by the mix of fresh and salt waters, along with the warmer temperatures, creates and ideal mix for conditions that are sheltered and rich in nutrients, building a prolific food web that supports many types of animals in the water and on the land.

Double Crested Cormorants drying off in the morning sun on the Estero
Photo by Casey Newman, 2011, All Rights Reserved.

Named for Sir Francis Drake, Drakes Estero is one of the possible sites where he landed in 1579 to repair his ship. Many other creatures call this water their home, including rock and kelp crabs, many species of fish, clams, limpets, and barnacles. Leopard sharks and bat rays cruise through the Estero to feed, mate, and give birth. Buffleheads, loons, and scoters come into the Estero to feed on fish eggs that attached to the eelgrass. Both brown and white pelicans will summer here, and double crested cormorants live here year round.

A group of harbor seals hauled out on a sand bar
Photo by Casey Newman, 2011, All Rights Reserved.

 

 

The largest colony of harbor seals in the Seashore makes its home near the mouth of Drakes Estero. Harbor seals give birth to their pups usually between March and June, and nurse the pups for three to six weeks. During that time, the pups are learning how to fend for themselves, and the waters of Drakes Estero are perfect for that. Each year, the Estero closes between March 1 and July 1 so that the seals are not disturbed by the presence of humans. Once the Estero reopens, curious harbor seal pups are seen in the area, but they are well on their way to their adult size of 5 to 6 feet and 200 to 300 pounds.
 

If you would like to join us on a tour of Drakes Estero, check out Exploring Drakes Estero for more information and tour dates. This trip is often a day full of wonder, and also of paddling, so be sure to check out the clothing recommendations and call or email us with any questions!

Bioluminescence, Part 2

Bioluminescence is produced by a chemical reaction similar to the one that happens when a glow stick is broken. This reaction releases energy as light. The color of the light that is produced is usually blue or green, but can be red, yellow, or orange, depending on the chemicals used in the reaction. Most animals produce only one color of light, but some fish and worms use two colors of light

Looking for fish beneath cliffs of Laird's Sandstone on Tomales Bay
Photo by Casey Newman, 2011, All Rights Reserved.

Some animals, like fish and shrimp, use photophores, or special organs to produce light. Others, such as jellyfish, have specialized cells scattered over their bodies that glow. Certain species of organisms play host to bioluminescent bacteria, which produce light in exchange for room and board. There are some species of squid that produce bioluminescent ink, which is squirted out as a defense mechanism.  Single celled organisms such as bacteria and dinoflagellates use special compartments in their cell to separate the chemicals that react to produce light, combining the compartments when necessary.

At depths of between 200m and 1000m in the ocean, up to 90% of animals use bioluminescence to blend in with their surroundings. The light that reaches down into those depths is blue-green, and these animals will use bioluminescent photophores (cells or organs that produce light) to match the amount of blue-green light around them, camouflaging themselves.  Other fish that live at those depths produce red light. Many organisms that live that deeply cannot see red light, so the fish that produce it can use the light to see their prey without being seen.  Deeper in the ocean, where conditions are always cold and dark, animals do not need bioluminescence to blend in, but they do use it to attract prey and for communication and courtship. These animals have unique patters of photophores, which may help them to recognize others of their species.

Plainfin Midshipman Fish
Photo copyright Terrence J Fidler, 2006,robots4farms.com

One type of bioluminescent fish, called the plainfin midshipman fish, lives deep in the Pacific Ocean but migrates to the coast in the summer to lay their eggs. These fish are a type of toadfish with no spots or stripes on their dorsal fin. Their photophores are arranged in a U-shape on the underside of their body, and the photophores look like the buttons on a naval officer’s uniform, which is how they get the name midshipman fish. The photophores are used to blend in with the light around them while they are in the ocean, which keeps predators from seeing them from below.

The male midshipman fish returns to Tomales Bay first, digging out a nest in the rocks along the shoreline. The rocks at Nick’s Cove are a favorite spot for these nests. Once there, the males begin to hum to attract females. The hearing of the female midshipman fish is so accurate that they can tell the difference between each male’s hum and find the nest of the hum they like best. Once there, the female will lay her eggs and return to the open ocean. The males fertilize and take care of the eggs, continuing to hum until their nests are full of eggs from many females. The males guard the nest until the eggs hatch and the hatchlings are ready to be on their own.

To hear the plainfin midshipman fish’s hum, visit Discovery of Sound in the Sea: http://www.dosits.org/audio/fishes/plainfinmidshipman/.

Bioluminescence, Part 1

What’s all the fuss about bioluminescence? What IS bioluminescence? 

Sunset over White Gulch on Tomales Bay.
Photo by Casey Newman, 2011, All Rights Reserved. 

It’s the production of light by living organisms. It can be used to attract prey, to communicate, and to help an organism blend in with its surroundings. Bioluminescence is also responsible for the glow that can sometimes be seen on moonless nights in the waters of the ocean. In several places in the world, including our own Bay Area, conditions are perfect for an annual “bloom” of dinoflagellates, a type of single celled organisms that are bioluminescent.

Dinoflagellates are a type of unicellular planktonic organism (whew, what a mouthful). They drift with the currents of the ocean (planktonic), using two whip-like structures (flagella) to move their single-celled selves around a bit. They can photosynthesize, or get energy from sunlight, but some dinoflagellates also eat other, smaller organisms. Most of them have armored plates made of cellulose for a cell wall, which makes them tough for their size (and also beautiful under a microscope). Some dinoflagellate species cause red tides, and release toxins that are harmful to humans. Other species, like the species that is found in Tomales Bay certain times of year, are bioluminescent.

The species of dinoflagellates that bioluminesce operate on a circadian rhythm- they photosynthesize during the day and they only glow at night. Because they only glow when they are jostled, it is theorized that they glow as a defense mechanism. One of their main predators is a type of shrimp, and if they glow when they are about to be eaten, the light will hopefully attract a fish, which will hopefully eat the shrimp. The flash of light may also act as a distraction, blinding the predator to allow the dinoflagellate time to get away.

During certain times of the year, strong winds push the top layer of coastal water offshore, allowing cold, nutrient-rich water to flow up from the ocean floor. This is known as upwelling, and it is responsible for the surge in nutrients that feed an explosion in the population of single celled algae. One species of those algae are the dinoflagellates that produce the light we see on Tomales Bay. Their bioluminescence can occasionally be seen year round, but tends to be strongest in the summer and early fall. The amount of nutrients in the water affects when we can see the bioluminescence and how long it lasts.

The waters of Tomales Bay are a perfect location for viewing the bioluminescence. Tomales Bay has a narrow opening which limits the amount of water that is exchanged during the tides, concentrating the dinoflagelates in the bay. Beds of eelgrass, a plant with long blades, further trap and concentrate the dinoflagellates in the shallow parts of the bay. The northern end of the bay is relatively undeveloped, which keeps light pollution from washing out the flashes of green light when the organisms are moved. 

A paddle through the bioluminescent waters of Tomales Bay is an amazing experience. As we paddle through the water, our boats, paddles, and even hands can jostle the organisms and make them flash. The bioluminescence does not hurt the dinoflagellates, and they can continue to emit flashes of light for hours. On especially dark nights, fish can be seen setting off the bioluminescence as they swim through the waters underneath our boats. The peaceful waters of Tomales Bay provide a protected location filled with wonderful wildlife to paddle past, and the bioluminescence is truly breathtaking.

Sunset on Tomales Bay.
Photo by Casey Newman, 2011, All Rights Reserved. 

Want to know more about bioluminescence? Check out the Bioluminescence Web Page at http://www.lifesci.ucsb.edu/~biolum/, or tune in next week for more information about bioluminescent critters and about a specific type of bioluminescent fish that returns to Tomales Bay every summer.  

Northern Elephant Seals at Chimney Rock

Bulls, cows, and pups at Chimney Rock
Photo by Casey Brechbill, 2011, All Rights Reserved. 

Northern elephant seals are amazing creatures.  They spend 80% of their life in the open ocean and most of that time is spent underwater.  They have the farthest migration of any mammal on land or sea because they migrate twice each year!  Northern elephant seals spend the year travelling from the beaches where they breed and have their pups to their feeding grounds far out in the Pacific Ocean, back to the beaches to molt, and then back to their feeding grounds.

Since 1981, when the first breeding pair returned to the Point Reyes National Seashore, the population of northern elephant seals at Chimney Rock has grown by leaps and bounds.  Though they have been seen at Chimney Rock year-round, the best time of year to see them is between December and March, when the seals return to Point Reyes to breed.

While at sea, elephant seals spend much of their time diving for food.  They can dive as deep as 5000 feet and stay down for 40 minutes!  Their normal dive is between 1,000 and 2,000 feet deep, where there are few other predators competing for the same food.  To dive this deep, elephant seals store extra oxygen in their blood, collapse their lungs, and slow their heart rate down to about 10% of normal.  Elephant seals eat fish, squid, octopus, and small sharks.

Bulls often have wounds around their neck from fights. 
 Photo by Casey Brechbill, 2011, All Rights Reserved.

Because they spend so much time in cold water, northern elephant seal s have a thick layer of blubber, or fat, under their skin.  In the 1800’s, northern elephant seals were hunted almost to extinction for their blubber, which was used for lamp oil.  In the 1920’s, Mexico and the United States banned the hunting of elephant seals.  The species has made an amazing recovery, from less than 100 animals to over 100,000.

There is still plenty to learn about elephant seals.  Until recently, much of what was known about them came from studying animals that were deceased.  With improvements in technology, researchers have been able to learn much more.  Northern elephant seals have been fitted with satellite and radio tags as part of the Tagging of Pacific Predators (TOPP) study.  Attaching a tag to a female elephant seal that weighs between 1,000 and 2,000 pounds is quite a process! Studies like these help researchers learn more about elephant seals and about the ocean environment that they travel through. 

Males have an extra large nose and are much larger than females.  
Photo by Casey Brechbill, 2011, All Rights Reserved.

 There are several places to see elephant seals in Point Reyes.  For some of the best viewing, take a drive out to Chimney Rock and walk on the paved trail to the Elephant Seal Overlook.  On weekends and holidays during peak viewing season, the Park operates a shuttle bus service between the Ken Patrick Visitor’s Center at Drakes Beach and Chimney Rock and the Lighthouse.  More information on the shuttle bus can be found here: http://www.nps.gov/pore/planyourvisit/shuttle.htm

For more information on these fascinating mammals, visit our sources: http://www.nps.gov/pore/naturescience/elephant_seals.htm  or  http://topp.org/species/elephant_seals

Sea Nettles!

Sea Nettles are a type of jellyfish found along the California coast.

 Watching jellyfish float and swim in an aquarium is often a relaxing experience, but finding them washed up on a beach or swimming next to you can be anything but soothing. We have several types of jellies in northern California waters, and sometimes swarms of them will be washed up onto beaches. Recently, Sea Nettle jellies (Chrysaora fuscescens) have been washing up onto the beaches of Tomales Bay, which is unusual for this time of year.


Sea Nettles washed up
on Heart's Desire Beach,
Tomales Bay State Park



Though much is known about jellies in captivity, scientists are still studying how jellyfish populations behave in the wild and why we have been seeing larger numbers of them in recent years in the water and washed up on the beach. Jellyfish can swim, but spend most of their time drifting with the currents. As they get closer to shore, large swells or high tides will wash them up onto the beaches, where they die.

Sea Nettles are one of the types of jellyfish that we see in Tomales Bay. They usually live in the open ocean along the coasts of California and Oregon during spring and summer, then move into shallower bays for the fall and winter. The bell, or top part of the Sea Nettle, grows over 17 inches across. The four oral arms, the furry-looking tentacles underneath, can be up to 15 feet long. They have 24 thin brown tentacles hanging from the bell that capture and paralyze their food. They eat young fish, zooplankton, and other jellies. Marine animals such as birds and turtles eat Sea Nettles and are not hurt by their sting. Small crabs will sometimes hitch a ride on Sea Nettles as they move through the ocean. Sea Nettles only live 6 to 12 months in the wild.

Jellyfish have stinging cells called nematocysts. Thousands of these cells line each tentacle, and they react to pressure. The stinging cells shoot out a barb attached to a thread, much like a harpoon, which hooks into prey to keep it from swimming off. Because the sting is an automatic reaction, the cells can still fire even after the jelly has died or the tentacle has been broken off. Sea Nettle stings in people rarely require medical attention, but they can be quite painful, so don’t touch! If you are stung, rinse the area with saltwater first to try and remove all parts of the tentacle. A vinegar rinse can sometimes reduce the pain of the sting, but do not use fresh water or urine, as these can make the sting worse. If you have any doubts about the severity of the sting, seek medical attention.

Sea Nettles are beautiful jellies in the water or washed up on the beach, as long as you do not touch the stinging cells. Want to know more? Check out our sources: http://jellieszone.com/, http://montereybayaquarium.com/animals, and http://zoo.pgh.pa.us/.

Harbor Seal Pups in Tomales Bay

Harbor seal pup hidden amongst the rocks
Photo by Todd Johansen 2011

            While paddling close to shore north of White Gulch, looking for a sea star or two, our Saturday kayak tour suddenly stumbled upon a grey and white harbor seal pup resting on the shore, tucked into the rocks. While this offered us a rare opportunity to see a pup up close, it was important that we quickly move along and leave the pup alone.

            As humans, our first instinct is to help the little guy, assuming that it has been abandoned or is sick. In actuality, mother harbor seals often leave their pups on shore for periods of time. The mother seal needs to hunt to provide sustenance for herself and for her pup, but cannot effectively snag a meal if the pup is tagging along, slowing her down. Therefore, the mother tucks the pup away, hidden amongst the shoreline, and returns in a couple of hours, once she has caught enough to eat.

            In Point Reyes, Drakes Estero is a popular pupping ground for harbor seals. It is protected March through July and access routes to the pups are closed off to protect the pups and mothers from human disturbance. Smaller numbers of pups can also be found in Tomales Bay, however, and only a few certain areas are protected, so it is important to be aware when paddling in the bay, what to do if you see a harbor seal.

            If you see a harbor seal pup along the shore in Tomales Bay, do not approach it. Quietly move away from the seal, as human presence will not only cause stress for the pup, but will prevent the mother from returning.

            The east shore of Hog Island is a popular haul out spot for harbor seals in the bay. It is illegal to land on the east side of the island, or to approach close enough to cause disturbance to the hauled out seals. It is important for them to haul out on land so that they can rest and regulate their body temperature. They also use haul out sites to give birth and to nurse their young. Human activity too close to harbor seals causes them to “flush” or rush into the water. If they are flushed often enough, they will abandon favorite haul out sites or even their young pups.

            Harbor seals are common this time of year in Tomales Bay, and can often be seen swimming near Hog Island. Even while staying clear of Hog Island, a kayaker can get an up close and personal view of a harbor seal as the curious animal swims by and investigates the boat. They feel much more comfortable in the water, and will get quite close to a kayaker, or follow the boat for a short distance.

Wildflowers and Wildlife at Chimney Rock

With the transitioning of the seasons comes the blooming of wildflowers and the beginning of the northbound Grey Whale migration to Alaska. In April and May, they pass through the waters just off the coast of Point Reyes, setting the stage for spectacular whale watching from Chimney Rock and the Lighthouse. A short hike out to Chimney Rock makes for a lovely morning filled with spectacular wildflowers, breathtaking views of Drakes Bay, the Farallon islands, the Lighthouse, migrating Grey Whales and hauled out Northern Elephant Seals along the secluded beaches below.



View of Chimney Rock from the Trail
Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011. All Rights Reserved

 The weather has been calm and sunny out here in Point Reyes for several days, so I decided it would be a great morning to go check out the flowers and see if I could catch a view of a whale or two. I should have checked the weather, however, because the wind was whipping across Chimney Rock, threatening to knock me to the ground. The choppy wind waves in the ocean prevented me from sighting any grey whales, but the spectacular wildflower bloom was worth the trip. Pink checkerblooms and red Indian Paintbrush add some patches of color to the sea of deep green grasses and brilliant purple Douglas Iris. As the season continues to progress, more and more wildflowers will begin to blanket Chimney Rock in a sea of vibrant colors.



Checkerblooms and Buttercups
Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011. All Rights Reserved.

 Northern Elephant Seals occupy the beaches near Chimney Rock as they give birth, breed and molt in winter and early spring. They have not always prospered here, however. In the early 1800's Elephant Seals were hunted nearly to extinction for their prolific amounts of blubber that was used to make oil. Thought to have been extinct for years, a small population of Elephant Seals was discovered off the coast of Baja California in 1892. By the early 1930's, the Mexican government gave protection to the struggling seals and the United States government soon followed suit. For the next 50 years, Elephant Seals grew in numbers and began repopulating former breeding sites along the coast of California. By the 1976, the first pup was born in Point Reyes. Today the population numbers more than 1200 seals during the high season.

Young Elephant Seal makes its way towards a group of females
Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011. All Rights Reserved.

Grey Whales can be seen from Point Reyes twice a year: during their southbound migration in December and January or their return migration in April and May. The annual migration of the Grey Whale exceeds that of any other mammal. Each year they leave their summer homes in the Bering Sea off the coast of Alaska and travel south to the warm lagoons of Baja California to breed and give birth. Then, in the spring they pack up the new babies and migrate back home to Alaska, traveling over 12,000 miles round trip in one year. During their northbound trip in April and May, they are easier to view because they are traveling slower due to the opposing current and the slower moving calves they have with them. They are also traveling closer to shore to keep the calves safe from potential predators at sea. Grey whales feed differently than other baleen whales. Rather than gulping up large amounts of water then filtering out krill and expelling the excess water, grey whales use their baleen to dredge the bottom of the sea then filter invertebrates out of the mud. They have much smaller sets of baleen than other whales because of this difference.

Blooming Lupine
Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011. All Rights Reserved/.

April and May are great months to hike out to Chimney Rock. Get out there and enjoy the scenery before the elephant seals leave and the whales finish their migration.

Coast Trail to the Beach Hike



Coast Trail along Drakes Bay
All Rights Reserved Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011



Spring is well on its way, and providing a multitude of beautiful sunny days to hike in Point Reyes. On Sunday the sun was shining and the weather was warm; a perfect day to go out and explore. I decided to head out Limantour road to the Youth Hostel where I could jump on the Coast Trail and take a walk out to the beach. Before departing, I took a detour out to the daffodil field tucked away near the hostel. Once an operating Daffodil farm, the field continues to bloom in great numbers each year. After a tricky creek crossing, I hopped up a small hill and was suddenly surrounded by hundreds of yellow and white daffodils. Although the flowers were numerous, I could clearly see where several visitors had picked flowers and left large bare patches in the field, which was a bit disheartening. All in all, however, the daffodil field was beautiful and well worth the effort to get there.

 

Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011. All Rights Reserved


After I had my fill of daffodils, I moved on to the Coast Trail. Even though it was a magnificent day, the path was not as crowded as I might have expected. Coast Trail consists of a graded fire road that follows a creek down to the coastline before turning south and meandering along the low cliffs. The north side of the trail is lined with coyote brush broken up by spectacular bunches of Douglas Iris, Indian Paintbrush and Buttercups.

I continued to make my way down the trail, stopping occasionally to snap a picture or bask in the warm sun. As I reached the bottom of a hill where the trail crosses the creek, I turned the corner and in front of me was a long deep puddle. After stopping for a moment to assess the situation, I realized there is a shallow sandbar along the north side of the puddle that I could carefully maneuver to avoid taking water inside my boots. The puddle covers a low point in the trail and gradually accumulated more and more water during all of the stormy weather that pounded Point Reyes over the winter, but should dry up in no time if the weather persists. The puddle marks the low point in the trail, and after crossing it I began to climb a gentle slope in the trail until I reached the ocean. The trail travels parallel to the beach, but there are several offshoot trails that offer beach access.

 

Hillside lined with Douglas Iris and Indian Paintbrush
All Rights Reserved. Photo byRosy Woodruff 2011



After taking a relaxing lunch break on the beach where clear skies provided incredible views all the way out to the Farallon islands, I continued along Coast Trail until it collides with Fire Lane Trail which eventually connects with Laguna trail then heads back to the parking lot. This section of the trail is a bit of a steep climb for a bit, but if you stop and turn around while catching your breath, the views are absolutely awe-inspiring. As the trail reaches the top of the crest, one can see where the Inverness ridge is recovering from the 1995 Mount Vision fire, which decimated acres of Bishop Pine forest, but gave us a great deal of insight into fire ecology. Soon after the smoke cleared, fire-thriving plants that had not been spotted in Point Reyes for years began popping up everywhere, their seeds having laid dormant for decades underneath the thick canopy of Bishop Pine; waiting for the day when a surge of intense heat would allow them to open.



Remnants of the 1995 Mount Vision Fire
All Rights Reserved. Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011


All in all, it was a marvelous day for a hike, and the Coast Trail is definitely worth checking out as the seasons change and continue to provide us with more and more excellent hiking days. This trip can be done backwards starting at Laguna Trail and finishing with Coast Trail to avoid the steep incline near the end, or Coast Trail is an excellent option for a leisurely bike ride down to the beach and back.



East Pacific Red Octopus on Tomales Bay

All Rights Reserved Tressa Bronner

Recently, we had a chance to get out onto Tomales Bay on a beautiful sunny afternoon. It was a great day for paddling as well as viewing wildlife. We saw all kinds of tide pool creatures, harbor seals and seabirds. Our most exciting find, however, occurred as we were launching our kayaks into the bay. Just as the first couple of boats paddled away from the ramp, we began to see long, shiny red tentacles emerging out of the water. Soon after, the head and body of a rather large East Pacific Red Octopus followed as the handsome critter slowly and carefully made his way onto shore. Undoubtedly, our stomping around in the mud launching our boats disturbed him from his cool, shady hangout; but it gave us a great chance to check out one of the bays most interesting bottom dwellers up close as he shifted from red to purple to brown.



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The East Pacific Red Octopus, once thought just be the young of North Pacific Giant Octopus, is its own species entirely. These much smaller cousins of the Giant Octopus only grow to be about 20 inches from the top of their head to the end of their tentacles. Like all octopi, they are capable of changing their color, generally ranging from red to brown and occasionally white. While the Giant Octopus is found in the depths of the ocean, East Pacific Reds prefer the warm shallow waters of bays and estuaries.

Unlike other invertebrates, when the East Pacific Red catches a meal, it does not eat it right on the spot. Instead, it gathers a collection of crabs, clams and scallops and brings them home to enjoy at its leisure. When the meal is done, the octopus carefully stacks the empty shells outside the entrance to their home, giving the other animals roaming the bay a clear idea of who lives there.

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In general, the Octopus is thought to be one of the most intelligent of all invertebrates. Research has shown that they are capable of problem solving and retaining memories. In fact, the East Pacific Red Octopus was the first invertebrate in captivity to show signs of having individual personalities.

Obviously in our rush to get out onto the water we had disturbed the little guy from his normal routine; so once we were finished taking his picture, we helped him find his way into the shade under the dock and out of sight of the hungry seagulls flying overhead.

Drakes Estero Trail to Sunset Beach Hike

Details: about 9 miles round trip, approximately 4 hrs with photo stops and a lunch break. This trail is a hiking and biking trail. Note: As of 1/26/11 impassable on a bike after 2 miles, read on for details.

Getting out of the car at the Estero Trail parking lot, was enough movement to necessitate removing a layer. The sun was shining and the bright blue skies were filled with wispy and playful clouds stretching the horizon.

All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

The first mile or so meanders through a thick pine stand. We welcomed the shady start to our hike as we were overdressed for this beautiful day. Amongst the trees we found several groupings of mushrooms poking out from beneath the duff. Once out of the pine stand, we reach the bridge across Home Bay. I have often stood on the bridge and watched countless leopard sharks swim beneath, in and out of the shallow feeding area past the bridge. But not today, the tide was out and only a small channel of water remained in the labyrinth that was the exposed mud of Home Bay. I stood and looked into the water reflecting the clouds and marveled, but not at sharks.

Looking Southwest into Home Bay from Bridge
All rights reserved. Photo By Tressa Bronner 2011

After the bridge, the trail proceeds uphill with views overlooking the estero. Bring your binoculars along as you are often within range to check out shorebirds and rafts of migrating water fowl. After about 3/4 of a mile, the trail got a bit tricky. Cows graze in the area and at some points it seems as if you are just following a cow trail, not an actual park trail. As we descended a shaded hill the wet mud had been trudged by cows and all that remained was a 4 inch wide bridge that was solid enough to support the weight of an adult. This bridge often shifted, as it was the residual non-path of the cows, so hopping back and forth between bridges was necessary to avoid the muddy hoof holes filled with puddles. This left us wondering how one would pass when the bridges were trampled. The trail continued in this way for quite some time: dry sections, muddy sections, followed by muddy almost impassable sections that left me wishing for rain boots but wondering about the bike tire tread tracks I saw, followed by dry sections. I enjoyed the challenge, but this trail is not suitable for all abilities nor bikes at this not-quite-dry time.

Lone Eucalyptus.
All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

We decided on the trail out to Sunset Beach, the shorter of the two options, since we had a time restraint.  If you stay on the main path, you can continue on to Drakes Head and beyond.  The trail out to the beach has lovely views and a couple of fresh water ponds. We stopped at the bench for a picnic in the sunshine. There is also a trail that continues on, but since we weren't there for the sunset, we opted not to get out feet wet. Walking past the large sandbar we stopped to watch the harbor seals catching rays on their temporary beach. About thirty seals were gathered, stretched out, enjoying the balmy weather.

Turning around we received flyovers by two flocks of American White Pelicans that were roaming the estero. At one point they circled around us three times before finally coming in for a landing on a fresh water pond. What a treat to hear their wing flaps and watch their splash landing into the pond.

Estero Trail Overlook
All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

All in all, a lovely day, gorgeous scenery, solitude, just a bit sloshy at points. This bike/hike will be much easier in summer and fall once dried out. I would say kayaking is the best way to explore the estero during these lovely winter days, as long as you check the tide first. Mud in your boots, while not fun, is much easier than a mud flat to cross in your kayak. Get out there soon! The estero closes annually to kayakers for harbor seal protection on March 1st until June 30th.

Glowing Green Halloween 2010

By Joyce Goldfield -Point Reyes Outdoors Customer

Halloween! What on earth does a 73 year old woman do on Halloween? I’m pretty game-I was going to drag out my old pumpkin costume and limp on down to the local happenings in Point Reyes. Just then the phone rang! Saved!



My friend Laurie, who owns Point Reyes Outdoors kayaking, hiking and biking company, spoke. Her question…

“Hey, we have an extra spot on our kayaking trip tonight. We’re going out on the bay to see the bioluminescence. Want to come?”

“Well, yeah!! I was just trying to get up the enthusiasm to don my pumpkin suit and go trick or treating!” My comment received her familiar laugh…

“Great. Meet me at the office at about 4pm and you can ride up with me. We plan to put in at Nick’s Cove in Marshall at 4:30pm. Wear a fleece and some warm socks. I’ve got everything else for you.”

So I did…and she did! She even brought me some extra socks! We rode up to Marshall, followed by her guide, who was driving the van, pulling a trailer of kayaks. The back of the van was stuffed full of gear.

We arrive at Nick’s Cove, just as the late afternoon serenity and softness was settling over the world. Somehow that time of day always inspires me to talk more softly and breathe more deeply.

Kayaks were unloaded and sat bobbing at the water’s edge, waiting. Customers arrived and Laurie greeted them warmly, quickly assessed our clothing and suggested we don one of her waterproof jackets with Velcro closures at the neck and cuffs. She also gave each of us a pair of warm kayaking gloves and waterproof pants. Over the top of all this was a kayaking spray skirt to keep us snug and dry as we paddled. All this was topped with a comfortable life vest. We looked at one another and giggled. I often spend time on the Bay so am accustomed to dressing in layers, but don’t own any of this waterproof gear – and definitely no spray skirt. I’m usually sopping wet halfway across the bay. Not tonight!!

Casey, the guide, gave each of us an individual brush up lesson on how to hold a paddle, advise on strokes, how to operate the rudder pedals (if you are seated in the stern of a two-person kayak) and some wise advice about giving plenty of room to the wildlife, not approaching close enough to flush them from their resting spots. And we were off!!

Tomales Bay Sunset
Photo by Alia Pasquale

Tomales Bay lay flat calm. I’ve lived here for 35 years and have spent many hours sailing and canoeing on this water. I’ve NEVER seen it like this…a shining sheet of glass! Just enough time had passed for the sunset to be at its most breathtaking. Not only was the sky all shades of pink/purple/orange/red, but this palette was reflected across the water, shore to shore. Floating on this amazingly brilliant canvas were all manner of sea bird: loons, cormorants, pelicans, gulls, ducks, herons. The guide knew facts and lore about all of them, which she happily shared. Remember how still and peaceful I told you it was? Now imagine the single call of a loon, floating across the still waters. Cormorants were making noise similar to an “oink”! Then as we approached Hog Island, in the middle of the bay, seals popped their heads up out of the water to view us as we passed. Many were pulled out on the sand spit of the island. Again, so still, we could hear them burp and scratch! Three very young, curious ones followed us. They kept bobbing their heads up to get a better look with their large dark eyes.

Coming around the island, in the middle of the bay, we saw a strange sight. A great Blue Heron was standing ON the water, not wading near shore, but in the middle of the bay. We gave him a wide berth, but perplexed as we tried to figure out his illusion. Floating near us there was a small cluster of bull kelp, a species seldom seen in the bay, but often found in large piles on ocean beaches. These stragglers could have floated in from the ocean, over the sandbar at the mouth, and into the bay. Seems the Heron was standing on a slightly submerged knot of kelp.

The light was slowly fading as we approached White Gulch, on the opposite shore. We cruised in and out of all the nooks, crannies, and caves along the bluff. They pointed out all manner of sea life: Sea anemones gently swaying their fronds to capture food, gorgeous, graceful brown jellyfish pulsing their way along in calm waters, bright star fish and one ethereal white moon jelly. The guide explained that river otters often hang out by the small caves near the bluff.

We paddled toward a small white beach and we pulled ashore. Laurie and the guide pulled out a table and a delightful repast of grapes, chocolate cherry cookies, almond pastries, a three-fruit buckle, and best of all, mugs of steaming hot chocolate.

The night sky was upon us and millions of stars were blooming in the black velvet. Because the water was so calm, every star was reflected therein. Our entire world – sky and water – was a tapestry of golden lights. Behind us, one single elk stood on the hill, silhouetted against the waning light. A huge lone, silent owl flew over us, so low you could feel the rush of the wind from his wings. Having just recently lost my beloved, I smiled, assuming it was his spirit, wishing us well.

Returning to the kayaks, the instant my paddle touched the water, I gasped. I was paddling in molten mercury! In quick silver! I thrust my hand into the water: gloves, jacket and all, wet, just to stir the water with my hand. Everyone was doing the same. We had been conversing in whispers. Not anymore. Everyone was uttering “oohs” and “ahhs” of delight! Then, it got better! EVERYTHING beneath the water was etched in silver and neon green! We could see the sea lettuce and kelp sway beneath. Big, little, wee tiny fish, swimming this way and that…shooting past us, beneath us, in front of us…leading us on their path of silver and brilliant green. Behind us, our wakes were a trail of silver. I scooped up a paddle full of glowing sea lettuce and dropped it back into the water, in a shower of sliver – and laughed aloud.

There was no reason to hurry. We were allowed to wander about (everyone had a red glow stick attached to their kayak for safety). We separated, came together, separated, awestruck!! Where to look? The star strewn black velvet sky? The silver and neon streaked bay, glittering with reflected golden stars? Somehow, it all blended together, it was difficult to see where the horizon line actually was. We were drifting and rotating in a gigantic illuminated bubble. Nobody wanted the evening to end.

As we slowly made our way across Tomales Bay, past the sleep murmurs of the critters on the darkened Hog Island, to the landing at Nick’s Cove…thoroughly relaxed, enchanted, soul satisfied, spirit uplifted, and completely mesmerized by the peace and beauty of it all.

I think I can safely say, that none of us will ever forget this evening as long as we live. None of us will be swept up in life to the extent that this evening doesn’t still dance behind our eyes…in our souls.