East Pacific Red Octopus on Tomales Bay

All Rights Reserved Tressa Bronner

Recently, we had a chance to get out onto Tomales Bay on a beautiful sunny afternoon. It was a great day for paddling as well as viewing wildlife. We saw all kinds of tide pool creatures, harbor seals and seabirds. Our most exciting find, however, occurred as we were launching our kayaks into the bay. Just as the first couple of boats paddled away from the ramp, we began to see long, shiny red tentacles emerging out of the water. Soon after, the head and body of a rather large East Pacific Red Octopus followed as the handsome critter slowly and carefully made his way onto shore. Undoubtedly, our stomping around in the mud launching our boats disturbed him from his cool, shady hangout; but it gave us a great chance to check out one of the bays most interesting bottom dwellers up close as he shifted from red to purple to brown.



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The East Pacific Red Octopus, once thought just be the young of North Pacific Giant Octopus, is its own species entirely. These much smaller cousins of the Giant Octopus only grow to be about 20 inches from the top of their head to the end of their tentacles. Like all octopi, they are capable of changing their color, generally ranging from red to brown and occasionally white. While the Giant Octopus is found in the depths of the ocean, East Pacific Reds prefer the warm shallow waters of bays and estuaries.

Unlike other invertebrates, when the East Pacific Red catches a meal, it does not eat it right on the spot. Instead, it gathers a collection of crabs, clams and scallops and brings them home to enjoy at its leisure. When the meal is done, the octopus carefully stacks the empty shells outside the entrance to their home, giving the other animals roaming the bay a clear idea of who lives there.

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In general, the Octopus is thought to be one of the most intelligent of all invertebrates. Research has shown that they are capable of problem solving and retaining memories. In fact, the East Pacific Red Octopus was the first invertebrate in captivity to show signs of having individual personalities.

Obviously in our rush to get out onto the water we had disturbed the little guy from his normal routine; so once we were finished taking his picture, we helped him find his way into the shade under the dock and out of sight of the hungry seagulls flying overhead.

Drakes Estero Trail to Sunset Beach Hike

Details: about 9 miles round trip, approximately 4 hrs with photo stops and a lunch break. This trail is a hiking and biking trail. Note: As of 1/26/11 impassable on a bike after 2 miles, read on for details.

Getting out of the car at the Estero Trail parking lot, was enough movement to necessitate removing a layer. The sun was shining and the bright blue skies were filled with wispy and playful clouds stretching the horizon.

All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

The first mile or so meanders through a thick pine stand. We welcomed the shady start to our hike as we were overdressed for this beautiful day. Amongst the trees we found several groupings of mushrooms poking out from beneath the duff. Once out of the pine stand, we reach the bridge across Home Bay. I have often stood on the bridge and watched countless leopard sharks swim beneath, in and out of the shallow feeding area past the bridge. But not today, the tide was out and only a small channel of water remained in the labyrinth that was the exposed mud of Home Bay. I stood and looked into the water reflecting the clouds and marveled, but not at sharks.

Looking Southwest into Home Bay from Bridge
All rights reserved. Photo By Tressa Bronner 2011

After the bridge, the trail proceeds uphill with views overlooking the estero. Bring your binoculars along as you are often within range to check out shorebirds and rafts of migrating water fowl. After about 3/4 of a mile, the trail got a bit tricky. Cows graze in the area and at some points it seems as if you are just following a cow trail, not an actual park trail. As we descended a shaded hill the wet mud had been trudged by cows and all that remained was a 4 inch wide bridge that was solid enough to support the weight of an adult. This bridge often shifted, as it was the residual non-path of the cows, so hopping back and forth between bridges was necessary to avoid the muddy hoof holes filled with puddles. This left us wondering how one would pass when the bridges were trampled. The trail continued in this way for quite some time: dry sections, muddy sections, followed by muddy almost impassable sections that left me wishing for rain boots but wondering about the bike tire tread tracks I saw, followed by dry sections. I enjoyed the challenge, but this trail is not suitable for all abilities nor bikes at this not-quite-dry time.

Lone Eucalyptus.
All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

We decided on the trail out to Sunset Beach, the shorter of the two options, since we had a time restraint.  If you stay on the main path, you can continue on to Drakes Head and beyond.  The trail out to the beach has lovely views and a couple of fresh water ponds. We stopped at the bench for a picnic in the sunshine. There is also a trail that continues on, but since we weren't there for the sunset, we opted not to get out feet wet. Walking past the large sandbar we stopped to watch the harbor seals catching rays on their temporary beach. About thirty seals were gathered, stretched out, enjoying the balmy weather.

Turning around we received flyovers by two flocks of American White Pelicans that were roaming the estero. At one point they circled around us three times before finally coming in for a landing on a fresh water pond. What a treat to hear their wing flaps and watch their splash landing into the pond.

Estero Trail Overlook
All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

All in all, a lovely day, gorgeous scenery, solitude, just a bit sloshy at points. This bike/hike will be much easier in summer and fall once dried out. I would say kayaking is the best way to explore the estero during these lovely winter days, as long as you check the tide first. Mud in your boots, while not fun, is much easier than a mud flat to cross in your kayak. Get out there soon! The estero closes annually to kayakers for harbor seal protection on March 1st until June 30th.

Glowing Green Halloween 2010

By Joyce Goldfield -Point Reyes Outdoors Customer

Halloween! What on earth does a 73 year old woman do on Halloween? I’m pretty game-I was going to drag out my old pumpkin costume and limp on down to the local happenings in Point Reyes. Just then the phone rang! Saved!



My friend Laurie, who owns Point Reyes Outdoors kayaking, hiking and biking company, spoke. Her question…

“Hey, we have an extra spot on our kayaking trip tonight. We’re going out on the bay to see the bioluminescence. Want to come?”

“Well, yeah!! I was just trying to get up the enthusiasm to don my pumpkin suit and go trick or treating!” My comment received her familiar laugh…

“Great. Meet me at the office at about 4pm and you can ride up with me. We plan to put in at Nick’s Cove in Marshall at 4:30pm. Wear a fleece and some warm socks. I’ve got everything else for you.”

So I did…and she did! She even brought me some extra socks! We rode up to Marshall, followed by her guide, who was driving the van, pulling a trailer of kayaks. The back of the van was stuffed full of gear.

We arrive at Nick’s Cove, just as the late afternoon serenity and softness was settling over the world. Somehow that time of day always inspires me to talk more softly and breathe more deeply.

Kayaks were unloaded and sat bobbing at the water’s edge, waiting. Customers arrived and Laurie greeted them warmly, quickly assessed our clothing and suggested we don one of her waterproof jackets with Velcro closures at the neck and cuffs. She also gave each of us a pair of warm kayaking gloves and waterproof pants. Over the top of all this was a kayaking spray skirt to keep us snug and dry as we paddled. All this was topped with a comfortable life vest. We looked at one another and giggled. I often spend time on the Bay so am accustomed to dressing in layers, but don’t own any of this waterproof gear – and definitely no spray skirt. I’m usually sopping wet halfway across the bay. Not tonight!!

Casey, the guide, gave each of us an individual brush up lesson on how to hold a paddle, advise on strokes, how to operate the rudder pedals (if you are seated in the stern of a two-person kayak) and some wise advice about giving plenty of room to the wildlife, not approaching close enough to flush them from their resting spots. And we were off!!

Tomales Bay Sunset
Photo by Alia Pasquale

Tomales Bay lay flat calm. I’ve lived here for 35 years and have spent many hours sailing and canoeing on this water. I’ve NEVER seen it like this…a shining sheet of glass! Just enough time had passed for the sunset to be at its most breathtaking. Not only was the sky all shades of pink/purple/orange/red, but this palette was reflected across the water, shore to shore. Floating on this amazingly brilliant canvas were all manner of sea bird: loons, cormorants, pelicans, gulls, ducks, herons. The guide knew facts and lore about all of them, which she happily shared. Remember how still and peaceful I told you it was? Now imagine the single call of a loon, floating across the still waters. Cormorants were making noise similar to an “oink”! Then as we approached Hog Island, in the middle of the bay, seals popped their heads up out of the water to view us as we passed. Many were pulled out on the sand spit of the island. Again, so still, we could hear them burp and scratch! Three very young, curious ones followed us. They kept bobbing their heads up to get a better look with their large dark eyes.

Coming around the island, in the middle of the bay, we saw a strange sight. A great Blue Heron was standing ON the water, not wading near shore, but in the middle of the bay. We gave him a wide berth, but perplexed as we tried to figure out his illusion. Floating near us there was a small cluster of bull kelp, a species seldom seen in the bay, but often found in large piles on ocean beaches. These stragglers could have floated in from the ocean, over the sandbar at the mouth, and into the bay. Seems the Heron was standing on a slightly submerged knot of kelp.

The light was slowly fading as we approached White Gulch, on the opposite shore. We cruised in and out of all the nooks, crannies, and caves along the bluff. They pointed out all manner of sea life: Sea anemones gently swaying their fronds to capture food, gorgeous, graceful brown jellyfish pulsing their way along in calm waters, bright star fish and one ethereal white moon jelly. The guide explained that river otters often hang out by the small caves near the bluff.

We paddled toward a small white beach and we pulled ashore. Laurie and the guide pulled out a table and a delightful repast of grapes, chocolate cherry cookies, almond pastries, a three-fruit buckle, and best of all, mugs of steaming hot chocolate.

The night sky was upon us and millions of stars were blooming in the black velvet. Because the water was so calm, every star was reflected therein. Our entire world – sky and water – was a tapestry of golden lights. Behind us, one single elk stood on the hill, silhouetted against the waning light. A huge lone, silent owl flew over us, so low you could feel the rush of the wind from his wings. Having just recently lost my beloved, I smiled, assuming it was his spirit, wishing us well.

Returning to the kayaks, the instant my paddle touched the water, I gasped. I was paddling in molten mercury! In quick silver! I thrust my hand into the water: gloves, jacket and all, wet, just to stir the water with my hand. Everyone was doing the same. We had been conversing in whispers. Not anymore. Everyone was uttering “oohs” and “ahhs” of delight! Then, it got better! EVERYTHING beneath the water was etched in silver and neon green! We could see the sea lettuce and kelp sway beneath. Big, little, wee tiny fish, swimming this way and that…shooting past us, beneath us, in front of us…leading us on their path of silver and brilliant green. Behind us, our wakes were a trail of silver. I scooped up a paddle full of glowing sea lettuce and dropped it back into the water, in a shower of sliver – and laughed aloud.

There was no reason to hurry. We were allowed to wander about (everyone had a red glow stick attached to their kayak for safety). We separated, came together, separated, awestruck!! Where to look? The star strewn black velvet sky? The silver and neon streaked bay, glittering with reflected golden stars? Somehow, it all blended together, it was difficult to see where the horizon line actually was. We were drifting and rotating in a gigantic illuminated bubble. Nobody wanted the evening to end.

As we slowly made our way across Tomales Bay, past the sleep murmurs of the critters on the darkened Hog Island, to the landing at Nick’s Cove…thoroughly relaxed, enchanted, soul satisfied, spirit uplifted, and completely mesmerized by the peace and beauty of it all.

I think I can safely say, that none of us will ever forget this evening as long as we live. None of us will be swept up in life to the extent that this evening doesn’t still dance behind our eyes…in our souls.

Eelgrass in Tomales Bay

Kayaking on Tomales Bay, near shore and in shallow water, we see long green strands that look a lot like seaweed, but actually, it is eelgrass. Eelgrass moved into the marine environment from land around 65 million years ago. It's actually a flowering plant, one of only two in the oceans.

Embarking on an Eelgrass Adventure, Tomales Bay.
Photo by Joseph Kinyon 2009. All rights reserved.

As the days grow longer, and the water warms, millions of pieces of pollen are released and fertilization takes place. In August these plants will then release hundreds of tiny seeds that will sink to the muddy bottom or be carried away by the current. Eelgrass beds have been the subject of interest for awhile, and scientists have some very cool findings. This plant helps to stabilize the coastal zone. Because their leaves are close together and often interwoven by the tides, they actually reduce the motion of the water. As the water slows, suspended material carried around by the tide and current, sinks to the bottom. The important supply of detritus that the eelgrass beds provide for near shore and off shore systems creates areas 10-100 times richer in animal life      compared to adjacent habitats.

In September, the leaves break away from the roots. Some float away, carried by currents; others fall to the bottom where a large percentage of the leaves decompose. Microscopic organisms begin to break down the leaves into smaller particles, and these become surrounded by bacteria and fungi. Bacteria and fungi are consumed by filter feeders such as clams and scallops. Deposit feeders (such as sea urchins) and sediment feeders (worms and snails) also join in to feast. The adult and larval forms of these invertebrates become food for larger life forms such as fish. The closely packed leaves provide a safe haven for young fish to try to avoid predation, the dense jungle of leaves often deters larger fish from going in too far. Thus the continuous cycle that eelgrass plays such a vital role is illuminated.

Eelgrass is difficult to eat for many birds because it is extremely fibrous. However, Brandts Geese rely on eelgrass to survive their 3000 mile migration. They have a specialized crop to ease digestion. Surf Scoters and Scaups swim down and clip off pieces of eelgrass in order to eat the herring eggs that are developing on the blades.

Dendronotus Iris Nudibranch. Photo by Joseph Kinyon 2009.
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Waterfowl are often easy to spot, but what they are looking for in the eelgrass often eludes us, unless we look carefully. Hiding within the jungle of blades one can find: herring eggs, nudibranch (sea slugs) and their eggs, copepods & isopods (small crustaceans), polychates (marine worms), clams, bryozoans, and varying forms of bacteria and fungus. At least 20 species of commercially valuable fish rely on eelgrass for food and habitat at some point in their lives. Searching for food in the rich, muddy areas surrounding the beds we often see leopard shark, bat rays, and other large predatory fish.

As we learn more and more about eelgrass, we also learn that eelgrass is helping to mitigate the impacts of humans on our waterways. Eelgrass is crucial to maintaining water quality. 1 acre of eelgrass absorbs 6.4 pounds of nutrients. This is equal to the effluent from 490 people for 1 year. Eelgrass plays a significant role in moderating the effects of increased carbon dioxide on our planet. 1 acre of eelgrass removes 7400 pounds of carbon. This is equal to the carbon dioxide emitted from a car traveling 3860 miles. Eelgrass beds are very difficult to restore once they have been destroyed (by pollutants, boat propellers and anchors, dredging and development). Less than 10% of restoration attempts are successful after 10 years.

Splendor in the Eelgrass, Taylor's Sea Hare. Photo by Joseph Kinyon 2009.
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Next time you are out on the water, tread lightly in eelgrass zones and be sure to take a closer look at the eelgrass beneath your boat. For a special treat, check out the eelgrass beds after dark. Bring a headlight and be prepared to get wowed by all of the creatures.

Want more: Check out Joseph Kinyon’s article Splendor in the Grass, on Bay pipefish, an eelgrass resident with some extraordinary adaptations for its environment.
Photos provided by Joseph Kinyon. All rights reserved. To contact Joseph or to see more of his photos, Find his "palustrine" Flickr  page.

Tidepooling at Duxbury Reef, Bolinas, CA

Kayaking on Tomales Bay allows us to see some critters often found in tidepools, however, walking out on Duxbury Reef and checking out nooks and crannies allows for some awesome discoveries. A group of sixth graders from Marin joined us at the reef for some exploration and we saw some neat creatures.

We found rose anemones, sea urchins, giant anemones, aggregate anemones, starfish including purple and orange ochre stars, chitons, limpets, crabs, and the coolest find, an octopus.

A quick moment on tides. The water in the ocean is constantly moving, caused by the forces of gravity from the moon and the sun. High tide is when the sun and the moon are lined up with the earth, causing the water to pull away from the earth. Low tide is when your area is not lined up with the moon. Low tides not around the full moon or new moon are usually best for exploring. Consult your local tide logs to determine when you should go. Most places are best when the tide is between 1 and negative 1. If the tide is less than negative 1, get out there for a rare preview into the world of creatures rarely visible to humans without a snorkel. Remember to respect the creatures living there, moving them or trying to free them from rocks can be quite detrimental to them.

We went out on a day with a -0.6ft tide at 9:30am. Ideally you want to be out exploring before the lowest point of the tide. Be careful when in tidepools, never put your back to the ocean, waves can sneak up and potentially knock you over and they tend to be very slippery areas. Also be aware that channels will fill with water that may block your way back, be sure not to get stuck out on a reef with no way back to dry land. You will find different creatures dependent on which tidal zone you are looking in and hte height of the tide.

Biking in Point Reyes National Seashore

Lots of folks go hiking in Point Reyes, although great bike trails exist. Just outside Point Reyes Station, we went for a mellow bike ride on the Bear Valley Trail, located at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. I have lived in this area for five years now, and told countless people to go check out Arch Rock. I have heard it is a great spot to go, that it is lovely, a nice beautiful hike and yada yada. For whatever reason, I have never gone!! So when a friend came to visit last week, it was a perfect opportunity to play tourist in my own town and check out some places I have never been, and Arch Rock was at the top of my list. I have hiked on the Bear Valley trail, but never out to the arch. This trail is perfect because it combines a bike ride, a hike, and a beach walk. You start in a forest, go to chaparral and end up at the ocean. There is a creek you walk along for awhile and cross to get to a viewing spot of the arch, anyway, great combination; this trail really shows off Point Reyes National Seashore.

Starting from the parking lot it is about 1.5 miles to Divide Meadow, a great spot for a picnic, snack or throwing a Frisbee if you are walking. There are a couple of trails that diverge off of this trail, but bikes aren’t allowed. There are bathrooms at the meadow, which is a nice feature, although I always forget they are there for some reason. On bikes it took us less than ten minutes to get to the meadow, so we weren’t ready to stop yet. Anyway, another 1.5 miles gets you to the trail junction. At this point you have to lock up your bike, racks are provided, and continue on foot. I was bummed at first to get off the bike, but the wildflowers were going crazy and there was a lot of great stuff to take pictures of, and on a bike I would have blown right by and never even noticed. It is about a mile from the bike racks out to the ocean. The trail stops at a bluff at which point you will notice a switchback down into the creek. This part of the trail is a little sketchy for folks that aren’t as stable on their feet.

We got there at a high tide, oops, should have planned that better. So beach walking was limited, but we could still wander around and see the waves crashing through the arch.

White's Gulch 2/4/09

Well, 'round the Hog we went. It was a short morning adventure, as we had to be back before lunch, and a gorgeous day on Tomales Bay greeted us. Today the group was high school students from SF, a teacher, and myself, the guide. The fog lifted leaving blue skies with white clouds streaking over the bay. Out on the bay there were rafts of buffleheads, a few red breasted mergansers, a pair of loons, and some brown pelicans with their mating colors. The moon jellies were everywhere in the water beneath us, their translucent purple seen below the surface. We stopped on the western side of Hog Island to stretch our legs and have a snack. The tide was low enough to see aggregate anemones, sea urchins, limpets, chitons, and both bat stars and ochre stars. As we started back towards our launch site we were followed by a harbor seal who kept popping up on either side of our group. All in all a good wildlife day paddling on the bay.

For more info: http://www.pointreyesoutdoors.com/WhitesGulch.htm

Hog Island Holiday Weekend

The sun was shining when we met at Miller Park Boat Launch on Sunday to explore around the White Gulch area and enjoy a picnic lunch on the beach. When we launched the tide was still ebbing, so we rode the current north toward Walker Creek and the oyster beds. There was still just enough water to paddle through the area and soon we saw something thrashing in the water just ahead of us.

As we got closer we discovered dozens of leopard sharks, small bottom feeding sharks that eat critters living in the muddy bottom of Tomales Bay. They were everywhere, swimming over each other, breaking the surface of the water, and swimming beneath our kayaks. It was a wonderful spectacle to see so many of them up close. After floating in the area for awhile the sharks had disturbed so much of the bottom, we could no longer see through the murky water. The sharks were still darting about and would surprise us by surging away from our kayaks if we unknowingly got too close.

We continued north and then across the bay seeing hundreds of buffleheads and some grebes floating in rafts. On the sand bar at Hog Island dozens of cormorants sat with a lone Great Blue Heron. As we crossed the bay, a renegade wind from the southeast picked up. As the wind gained strength, so did our appetite. We found an unoccupied beach, tucked into the lee and enjoyed a nice lunch from a couple of local stops in Point Reyes Station. We were hoping the wind would die down as we feasted, but it seemed to be gaining strength. We made it back safely to our cars and not soon after the wind had died down completely, flattening out the bay as the tide started to flood back in.

Interested in more info. Check us out at http://www.pointreyesoutdoors.com/