Winter Paradise: The Lighthouse & Kehoe Beach

As winter continues on, our days grow longer, yet out in Point Reyes, it already feels like spring. Daffodils are popping up, I had one bloom in my yard last week! Wildflowers are getting ready to bloom. The crisp, clear days beg for exploring places that often find themselves shrouded in fog, or gusting with wind in the "summer".

Checking the park webcam, is often a first step for me. BTW, don't forget to click on the picture to see a live photo. Is it sunny out there? Is the wind blowing? (Try the WindAlert app) What is the wind forecast? (Try NOAA) I know that lots of folks just find themselves out here, but a couple of savvy checks can really make the difference in your adventure. Knowing the wind direction and how that would impact your hike, may seem a bit dorky, but often means avoiding less optimal winds, which translates into a higher enjoyment factor. Plus I like to be prepared, is a windbreaker enough or do I need a puffy? Anyway, I ramble.

 Kehoe Beach:

The photo at left was taken mid-morning in early January.  I was feeling cooped up. It had been raining. Again. I love the rain. We need the rain. But it had rained all morning in Point Reyes Station and it was my day off. It was still overcast and drizzly, but on a whim, a webcam check showed the clouds breaking near Tomales Point. So off I went.
  Guess what? No one was there but me. 

The Lighthouse:

Many people are discouraged by all those stairs... Don't be. Yes, if you are out of shape you will be out of breath, however, that won't be what you remember. Views out to the Farallon Islands, gray whale spouts, birds. FYI: They close the stairs on windy days, usually midafternoon. Avoid getting turned away by heading out in the morning. On a crisp day I snapped the two photos in this blog, with a fun & free app, Photosynth. (You can take 360 photos on your smartphone, just spin and tap. On your phone they are navigable.) I didn't crop them, so you can see how the app works, but I have cleaned up other photos I have taken with the app, they are wall worthy!

Happy Exploring!

Coast Trail to the Beach Hike



Coast Trail along Drakes Bay
All Rights Reserved Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011



Spring is well on its way, and providing a multitude of beautiful sunny days to hike in Point Reyes. On Sunday the sun was shining and the weather was warm; a perfect day to go out and explore. I decided to head out Limantour road to the Youth Hostel where I could jump on the Coast Trail and take a walk out to the beach. Before departing, I took a detour out to the daffodil field tucked away near the hostel. Once an operating Daffodil farm, the field continues to bloom in great numbers each year. After a tricky creek crossing, I hopped up a small hill and was suddenly surrounded by hundreds of yellow and white daffodils. Although the flowers were numerous, I could clearly see where several visitors had picked flowers and left large bare patches in the field, which was a bit disheartening. All in all, however, the daffodil field was beautiful and well worth the effort to get there.

 

Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011. All Rights Reserved


After I had my fill of daffodils, I moved on to the Coast Trail. Even though it was a magnificent day, the path was not as crowded as I might have expected. Coast Trail consists of a graded fire road that follows a creek down to the coastline before turning south and meandering along the low cliffs. The north side of the trail is lined with coyote brush broken up by spectacular bunches of Douglas Iris, Indian Paintbrush and Buttercups.

I continued to make my way down the trail, stopping occasionally to snap a picture or bask in the warm sun. As I reached the bottom of a hill where the trail crosses the creek, I turned the corner and in front of me was a long deep puddle. After stopping for a moment to assess the situation, I realized there is a shallow sandbar along the north side of the puddle that I could carefully maneuver to avoid taking water inside my boots. The puddle covers a low point in the trail and gradually accumulated more and more water during all of the stormy weather that pounded Point Reyes over the winter, but should dry up in no time if the weather persists. The puddle marks the low point in the trail, and after crossing it I began to climb a gentle slope in the trail until I reached the ocean. The trail travels parallel to the beach, but there are several offshoot trails that offer beach access.

 

Hillside lined with Douglas Iris and Indian Paintbrush
All Rights Reserved. Photo byRosy Woodruff 2011



After taking a relaxing lunch break on the beach where clear skies provided incredible views all the way out to the Farallon islands, I continued along Coast Trail until it collides with Fire Lane Trail which eventually connects with Laguna trail then heads back to the parking lot. This section of the trail is a bit of a steep climb for a bit, but if you stop and turn around while catching your breath, the views are absolutely awe-inspiring. As the trail reaches the top of the crest, one can see where the Inverness ridge is recovering from the 1995 Mount Vision fire, which decimated acres of Bishop Pine forest, but gave us a great deal of insight into fire ecology. Soon after the smoke cleared, fire-thriving plants that had not been spotted in Point Reyes for years began popping up everywhere, their seeds having laid dormant for decades underneath the thick canopy of Bishop Pine; waiting for the day when a surge of intense heat would allow them to open.



Remnants of the 1995 Mount Vision Fire
All Rights Reserved. Photo by Rosy Woodruff 2011


All in all, it was a marvelous day for a hike, and the Coast Trail is definitely worth checking out as the seasons change and continue to provide us with more and more excellent hiking days. This trip can be done backwards starting at Laguna Trail and finishing with Coast Trail to avoid the steep incline near the end, or Coast Trail is an excellent option for a leisurely bike ride down to the beach and back.



Drakes Estero Trail to Sunset Beach Hike

Details: about 9 miles round trip, approximately 4 hrs with photo stops and a lunch break. This trail is a hiking and biking trail. Note: As of 1/26/11 impassable on a bike after 2 miles, read on for details.

Getting out of the car at the Estero Trail parking lot, was enough movement to necessitate removing a layer. The sun was shining and the bright blue skies were filled with wispy and playful clouds stretching the horizon.

All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

The first mile or so meanders through a thick pine stand. We welcomed the shady start to our hike as we were overdressed for this beautiful day. Amongst the trees we found several groupings of mushrooms poking out from beneath the duff. Once out of the pine stand, we reach the bridge across Home Bay. I have often stood on the bridge and watched countless leopard sharks swim beneath, in and out of the shallow feeding area past the bridge. But not today, the tide was out and only a small channel of water remained in the labyrinth that was the exposed mud of Home Bay. I stood and looked into the water reflecting the clouds and marveled, but not at sharks.

Looking Southwest into Home Bay from Bridge
All rights reserved. Photo By Tressa Bronner 2011

After the bridge, the trail proceeds uphill with views overlooking the estero. Bring your binoculars along as you are often within range to check out shorebirds and rafts of migrating water fowl. After about 3/4 of a mile, the trail got a bit tricky. Cows graze in the area and at some points it seems as if you are just following a cow trail, not an actual park trail. As we descended a shaded hill the wet mud had been trudged by cows and all that remained was a 4 inch wide bridge that was solid enough to support the weight of an adult. This bridge often shifted, as it was the residual non-path of the cows, so hopping back and forth between bridges was necessary to avoid the muddy hoof holes filled with puddles. This left us wondering how one would pass when the bridges were trampled. The trail continued in this way for quite some time: dry sections, muddy sections, followed by muddy almost impassable sections that left me wishing for rain boots but wondering about the bike tire tread tracks I saw, followed by dry sections. I enjoyed the challenge, but this trail is not suitable for all abilities nor bikes at this not-quite-dry time.

Lone Eucalyptus.
All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

We decided on the trail out to Sunset Beach, the shorter of the two options, since we had a time restraint.  If you stay on the main path, you can continue on to Drakes Head and beyond.  The trail out to the beach has lovely views and a couple of fresh water ponds. We stopped at the bench for a picnic in the sunshine. There is also a trail that continues on, but since we weren't there for the sunset, we opted not to get out feet wet. Walking past the large sandbar we stopped to watch the harbor seals catching rays on their temporary beach. About thirty seals were gathered, stretched out, enjoying the balmy weather.

Turning around we received flyovers by two flocks of American White Pelicans that were roaming the estero. At one point they circled around us three times before finally coming in for a landing on a fresh water pond. What a treat to hear their wing flaps and watch their splash landing into the pond.

Estero Trail Overlook
All rights reserved. Photo by Tressa Bronner 2011.

All in all, a lovely day, gorgeous scenery, solitude, just a bit sloshy at points. This bike/hike will be much easier in summer and fall once dried out. I would say kayaking is the best way to explore the estero during these lovely winter days, as long as you check the tide first. Mud in your boots, while not fun, is much easier than a mud flat to cross in your kayak. Get out there soon! The estero closes annually to kayakers for harbor seal protection on March 1st until June 30th.

Biking in Point Reyes National Seashore

Lots of folks go hiking in Point Reyes, although great bike trails exist. Just outside Point Reyes Station, we went for a mellow bike ride on the Bear Valley Trail, located at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. I have lived in this area for five years now, and told countless people to go check out Arch Rock. I have heard it is a great spot to go, that it is lovely, a nice beautiful hike and yada yada. For whatever reason, I have never gone!! So when a friend came to visit last week, it was a perfect opportunity to play tourist in my own town and check out some places I have never been, and Arch Rock was at the top of my list. I have hiked on the Bear Valley trail, but never out to the arch. This trail is perfect because it combines a bike ride, a hike, and a beach walk. You start in a forest, go to chaparral and end up at the ocean. There is a creek you walk along for awhile and cross to get to a viewing spot of the arch, anyway, great combination; this trail really shows off Point Reyes National Seashore.

Starting from the parking lot it is about 1.5 miles to Divide Meadow, a great spot for a picnic, snack or throwing a Frisbee if you are walking. There are a couple of trails that diverge off of this trail, but bikes aren’t allowed. There are bathrooms at the meadow, which is a nice feature, although I always forget they are there for some reason. On bikes it took us less than ten minutes to get to the meadow, so we weren’t ready to stop yet. Anyway, another 1.5 miles gets you to the trail junction. At this point you have to lock up your bike, racks are provided, and continue on foot. I was bummed at first to get off the bike, but the wildflowers were going crazy and there was a lot of great stuff to take pictures of, and on a bike I would have blown right by and never even noticed. It is about a mile from the bike racks out to the ocean. The trail stops at a bluff at which point you will notice a switchback down into the creek. This part of the trail is a little sketchy for folks that aren’t as stable on their feet.

We got there at a high tide, oops, should have planned that better. So beach walking was limited, but we could still wander around and see the waves crashing through the arch.